Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
